Grand Seiko is an undisputed fan-favorite amongst watch enthusiasts. Celebrated for their super intricate dials, simple but elegant designs, and an almost annoying devotion towards seeking perfection; it’s a brand often compared with some of the giants in the Swiss watch industry.

Personally, I genuinely believe you can’t possibly go wrong with any Grand Seiko. It’s just not possible. Even their ugliest or most simplistic design in their current catalogue will be mesmerizing to look at up close. Kinda like waking up next to Margot Robbie. No matter how hard you try to look for an imperfection, in the end you won’t even mind if you ever found one. You’re living the life.

Anyway, from the quite diverse portfolio of 164 watches, I have picked my 5 personal favorites. Meaning if I had the cash, these would be my go-to picks from the Japanese powerhouse. Expect to see a lot of mesmerizing dials! Do you have your own personal favorites? Please, leave them in the comments!

Tentagraph SLGC001 (13,700 USD)

Besides looking cool as hell, you’re looking at Grand Seiko’s very first automatic mechanical chronograph ever. Obviously, design-wise the watch doesn’t disappoint. I’m fascinated with that blue dial which gives the watch its distinctive super-sporty look. It’s supposed to emulate Mt. Iwate, a peak visible from the brand’s main studio. However, the best part about this one has got to be the mechanical caliber beating inside it.

The 9SA5 boasts a 72 hour power reserve, making it the longest-running watch with a 10 beat-per-second chronograph as of today. It also has a precision of +5/-3 seconds per day, in turn making it one of the most precise mechanical chronographs in the world. A lot of “firsts” with this one, undoubtedly! My only issues with it are its dimensions and that overly big hour hand. Keep in mind that at 43.2 mm in diameter, 51.5 mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 15.3 mm, the Tentagraph is certainly a big boy. Thankfully, thanks to the fact both its case and bracelet are made in super light and resistant titanium, it means this watch is an excellent choice for everyday use.

SBGJ275 (7,600 USD)

A 25th Anniversary Limited Edition, this watch is so damn pretty to look at, I’d hang a poster of it on my wall. As literally all Grand Seiko watches, the dial steals the show. Once again, it takes inspiration from Mt. Iwate. However, this time, it represents a scene where a sea of dense clouds form over its peak. The result is a combination of a white, blue and grey palette mixed together in a dial that feels “organic” despite being made entirely by machine. Once again, titanium was chosen for the case and bracelet in a 44.2 mm in diameter and 50.6 mm lug-to-lug package.

To make things extra cool, you can see from the back a personalized rotor decorated to look very similar to the watch’s dial. Equipped with a GMT hand to track a second time zone, my sole gripe with this watch is that rather awkward date window at 4 o’clock which messes with its symmetry rather disturbingly. Aside from that minor detail, this has got to be one of the finest GMT mechanical watches you can find for the price. Breathtaking piece!

SLGA023 (11,600 USD)

Dive watches tend to be a lot like Elon Musk. They might be quite boring to look at (some daresay “ugly”) but when it comes to doing their thing, no one can do it better. This is why dive watches are considered to be among the safest choices out there for a watch. But this one is far from being boring. In fact, take a closer look at the dial and you’ll soon realize that the deep blue color as well as its texture are inspired directly by a deep blue sea.

In fact, the brand quotes their inspiration to be the flow of the Kuroshio Current, one of the world’s major and most diverse ocean currents. A dial as haunting to look at as this one typically has no business being in a tool watch like this. To make it extra special, it also boasts Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive caliber which combines an electronic regulator for ultra high-precision with a mechanical rotor for up to 5 days of power reserve. Simply astonishing. Without a doubt, one of my absolute favorites in the dive watch market.

SBGJ249 (6,800 USD)

Sticking with watery themes, here’s another GMT watch to help you track two separate time zones. However, Grand Seiko really devoted themselves to make one of the most painfully beautiful dials I’ve ever seen on a watch. This intricate pattern you see comes directly from what the Japanese call Shōsho. It’s defined as the moment when summer approaches and the rainy season ends, leaving a warm wind which ripples across lakes and ponds throughout Japan.

The idea of replicating a moving image within the dial of a watch is something only Grand Seiko would be insane enough to attempt. To make things even crazier, the result is surprisingly effective. The wavey patterns on the dial give it the watch a look that you won’t ever find in any other brand, period. The level of refinement and detail on this watch puts so many luxury brands at a much more expensive price point to shame. The color, the finishing, the functionality; this is perhaps my second favorite watch within Grand Seiko’s catalogue. The natural question is: which is my absolute favorite?

SBGA413 (6,600 USD)

I have no words to describe how much I love this watch. Never in a million years would I have pictured myself lusting after a watch with a pink dial but here we are. Aside from the Spring Drive caliber, what I love most about this watch is that gorgeous pink pattern. Taken directly from the Hana-Ikada, it’s meant to replicate the super famous moment where cherry blossom petals are scattered all through Japan during spring. This visual spectacle is so gorgeous, some tourists insist on visiting Japan during spring just to witness it.

Now imagine you can have a taste of that moment on your incredibly well made timepiece which costs just a little over Rolex’s cheapest model. Not only that, it has a better and much more interesting caliber inside than the Rolex. Not to mention you can actually see when you turn it over. It truly makes me wonder why Rolex is as popular as it is when timepieces like these exist. A literally perfect dress watch (even with that power reserve indicator) is my definitive first choice if I could only have a single model from Grand Seiko. I truly love this goddamn thing.

Which one is your favorite? Please, leave a comment!

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